Visit Palestine: The Banksy hotel – My experience of the Walled Off Hotel, Bethlehem

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Some hotels are so unique and interesting that they count as a destination in themselves. I personally love to stay in quirky hotels that are different from the norm. Some hotels are definitely more than just a place to sleep for the night. Don’t you agree? Well, that is exactly what you will find at the Walled Off Hotel, otherwise known as the Banksy hotel.

The hotel is located in Bethlehem in the West Bank, Palestine and was designed by legendary street artist Banksy. 

A lot of Banksy’s artwork deals with controversial and political themes and the Walled Off Hotel is no different.

Located just a few feet from the highly controversial (and illegal) separation wall between Israel and the West Bank, the hotel functions as an art installation, a political protest and a luxury hotel. This makes it one of the most unique places to stay in the world. 

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Israel, Palestine and the separation wall 

Before we get into this post it is important to give some background information on Israel, Palestine, the separation wall and the conflict in the Middle East. 

There are many sources out there that can explain the nuances of the situation better than I can. So for an overview of the history, I urge you to read this article by the BBC. But do be aware that it doesn’t give a full account of all the human rights violations being committed.

If you want to learn about the key issues relating to Palestine then I recommend these fact sheets. 

I also recommend learning about the UN’s relief work with Palestinian refugees.

And If you want to know what you can do to help the people of Palestine then check out the Palestine solidarity campaign. 

The Banksy hotel 

The Walled Off hotel opened in March 2017 to mark 100 years since the British seized control of Palestine… and ultimately kick-started the long and complicated conflict in the Middle East.

In a press statement at the time, Banksy explained: “It’s exactly 100 years since Britain took control of Palestine and started rearranging the furniture – with chaotic results.” Adding as a clear dig at Brexit: “I don’t know why, but it felt like a good time to reflect on what happens when the United Kingdom makes a huge political decision without fully comprehending the consequences.”

I decided to visit Palestine in 2019 as part of a larger trip around the Middle East, which also included Israel.

I arrived in the evening after a long journey from Palestine’s capital city Ramallah. The journey shouldn’t usually take that long. Unfortunately, my taxi driver had decided it would be a good idea to try offroading to avoid traffic. And ended up getting us stuck in a ditch. But that’s a story for another time!

I climbed out of the taxi feeling rather tired and irritable. However, my mood quickly changed as soon as I approached the door to Banksy’s famous Walled Off Hotel. 

The hotel is located just a few feet from the imposing separation wall. I was keen to explore the area. But since the sun had already set I would have to wait for the morning.

Instead, I turned my attention to the ‘doorman’,  a chimpanzee statue dressed in a bellhop uniform, perched atop a stack of luggage with clothes spilling out onto the pavement. The style was unmistakably Banksy. 

I didn’t have long to admire the artwork before an actual bellhop appeared at the door and ushered me inside. 

Once inside, I was offered a seat at the bar. And it wasn’t too long before I was sipping on a complimentary welcome cocktail.

As I sipped my drink, the frustration of the day instantly began to wear off and was soon replaced with excitement. I felt like a kid at Disneyland and I couldn’t wait to explore this amazing place. 

The rooms at the Walled Off Hotel, Bethlehem

Once I had finished my drink the bellhop led me over to a bookcase in the corner of the piano bar and gave me an explanation of how guests can reach their rooms.

“Simply hold your key fob close to the statue of Venus, wait for her nipples to light up red… then voila!” he beamed at me as the bookcase swung open to reveal a staircase.  I couldn’t help but laugh out loud at this quirky feature!

Each room at the Walled Off Hotel has a different theme and contain original Banksy artworks. The presidential suite features a hot tub and water tank riddled with bullet holes. Whilst another room showcases a mural, above the bed, of a Palestinian fighter and an Israeli soldier engaging in a pillow fight. 

I chose to stay in the barracks. A budget dorm room decorated with items scavenged from an abandoned army barracks. Although this was the budget option there was still a ton of fun features in the room. The attention to detail in the whole hotel is perfect. This is not your typical backpacker dorm. 

All windows in the hotel face out onto the separation wall, for what Banksy has dubbed “The worst view in the world”.

The shadow of the wall means that each room only receives around 25 minutes of sunlight each day.

From the upstairs stairwell, you can also see an Israeli settlement on a hilltop in the distance. This settlement is illegal under international law.

The view serves as a stark reminder of the tense political situation taking place all around you. 

The Walled Off Museum 

After I had gotten settled in my room (and took a bunch of selfies of course!) I wanted to explore the rest of the hotel, as obviously, the Banksy hotel is a destination and experience itself and not just a place to stay. 

First I headed to the museum. The small museum aims to bring awareness to the plight of the Palestinian people and the horrendous human rights violations being committed against them.

Banksy knew that people would come from all over the world to visit his hotel, so he created a space to educate the world about Palestine’s oppression. 

 I had already visited the Yassar Arafat museum in Ramallah the day before. And I had done a ton of reading before I came to visit Palestine. So I thought that I had a pretty good understanding of the conflict already.

But the museum at the Walled Off Hotel blew my mind. It showed me a whole new perspective and left me scratching my head as to how the international community is allowing this to happen. As a video playing in one of the rooms said “If you are not completely baffled, then you don’t understand”. 

The museum was very interactive and extremely poignant. As I explored the various exhibits I was taken on an intense emotional rollercoaster.

I won’t give away too much as I don’t want to spoil it for anyone who wants to visit. But I will tell you that the museum gives a voice to the Palestinians and allows them a platform to tell the world what is happening to them in their own words.

One of my favourite exhibits was the homemade gas masks. Along with the story of how Palestinian people had sent video instructions on how to make them to the Hong Kong protestors and Black Lives Matter movement. I loved the idea of people coming together from across the world to fight oppression together. 

I left the museum feeling a mixture of sadness, anger, bewilderment and intense admiration for the resilience of the Palestinian people. 

The art gallery

Next, I made my way to the art gallery and found myself to be the only person there.

The gallery features work by local Palestinian artists. As most Palestinians cannot travel due to the restrictions imposed upon them, this is the only way these artists can bring their work to an international audience.

I was glad to be alone in the gallery and was grateful for the quiet moment as I admired the art.

Many of the pieces are strongly political and very thought-provoking. Again, I was happy to see Banksy giving a platform for the Palestinians to tell their stories to the world. 

The Banksy hotel piano bar 

Later, having had my fill of museums and art, I made my way to the piano bar.

The grand room had an upmarket but dystopian theme to it.

At first glance, it seemed like the usual posh piano bar you would find in any nice hotel. But as I took the time to look closer I gradually noticed a few unsettling details…

A plastic hand protruding from a plant pot waves a burned and torn union jack flag.

The paintings of seascapes above the fireplace actually show the lifejackets of refugees strewn across the beach.

Tear gas engulfs the statue of a bust and in the corner of the room, a cat is trying to eat a caged peace dove. 

I ordered a beer from the local brewery in Taybeh, the first microbrewery to open in the Middle East, and a spread of hummus and falafels and took a seat at a table in front of the grand piano. 

The piano is self-playing and plays live performances at 8pm every night.

Many famous musicians, such as Jarvis Cocker, have composed music pieces for the piano to play. However, on this night an actual local pianist was playing.

I enjoyed a few more drinks whilst letting the wonderful piano concert wash over me. It was an extremely pleasant evening and for a moment I forgot that I was sitting only feet away from the separation wall. Arguably the worst human rights violation in the world. 

The wall and the Aida refugee camp

The next morning, after a fantastic nights sleep and even more hummus for breakfast, I was ready to explore.

With the help of the hotel staff, I arranged a private tour with a local guide to learn more about the life of the local people.

I met my guide Marwan outside the hotel and we began to wander along the length of the separation wall.

As we walked Marwan explained to me that he was born in the nearby refugee camp. His family was placed there by the UN after their homes and land were seized by Israeli forces. The UN promised them they would be able to go home within two weeks… But over 70 years later they are still there.

Marwan pointed to a key that he wore around his neck. “This is the key to my grandfather’s house. He kept it with him ready for when he could go home, but that never happened so he passed it to my father and now I keep it safe” he explained. “I don’t even know if the house is still there but I pray that one day I can go home.” 

I spent three hours with Marwan. We walked along the wall and viewed some of the most famous artworks that cover it. Then we headed to the Aida refugee camp, the most tear-gassed place in the world, where Marwan and over 5000 other Palestinian refugees live. 

The tour was intense and at some points both Marwan and I cried together. But I am so glad that I got to see first-hand what life in the West Bank is really like.

Marwan introduced me to several of his friends and I sat and listened intently to their stories, most of which were utterly harrowing.

After the tour, Marwan and I headed to a coffee shop within the camp. As we sat and drank I asked him “what can I do to help?”

He thought for a moment before responding “tell our stories to all your friends back home, the world needs to know what they are doing to us.”

I hope that by writing about my experiences in Palestine I can grant Marwan’s wish.  

How to Visit Palestine

I encourage everyone to visit Palestine with an open mind.

I travelled here as a solo female traveller and had no problems. Despite what you may have been told by the media, Palestine is not an active war zone.

I found the Palestinian people to be incredibly welcoming and friendly. Leave your expectations and stereotypes at home and you will have a wonderful time.

There are no airports within the Palestinian territories so you will have to enter through the checkpoints in Israel. The checkpoints can feel a little intimidating but you should be let through fairly easily.

Although I had no issues, I can understand that some people may feel uncomfortable solo travelling in this part of the world. Therefore I would highly recommend one of the organised group tours below.

FAQs about the Banksy Hotel

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